Phillipines - December
Mozambique - December to march
Thailand west coast - Dec to April (March sounds good)
Mexico - July, August, September
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Thai beaches
I am in Aonang - a convient place to meet Katherine. The beach here does not make the beach test so we head to ko lipe tomorrow....Hope for great beaches here.
Heading to West Raileigh for the afternoon today....check out the beach, although I dont hold much hope for the water quality - I only went in up to the ankles in Aonang.
Many people love the beach here.....mmmmm.....many people need to get a good beach education!
Thailand is so so so developed compared to indonesia - I really do have a love affair with that country!
Heading to West Raileigh for the afternoon today....check out the beach, although I dont hold much hope for the water quality - I only went in up to the ankles in Aonang.
Many people love the beach here.....mmmmm.....many people need to get a good beach education!
Thailand is so so so developed compared to indonesia - I really do have a love affair with that country!
Sunday, November 16, 2008
MV Mermaid II
This was my home for 4 days as I divde the similans off the west coast of Thailand.
I got back a couple of days ago from the trip that took us through the simialian islands up to richelieu rock and back.
The boat was so comfortable, chef was amazing and all in all I think it was one of the most luxurious moments of my life to date!
Here is a typical day:
6:00 am - first breakfast
7:00 am - dive
9:00 am - second breakfast
(Have a nap or lie on the sun deck)
11:00am - dive
12:30 pm - lunch
(Have a nap or lie on the sun deck)
2:00pm - dive
3:30pm - afternoon tea
(Have a nap or lie on the sun deck)
6:00pm - dive
8:00pm - dinner
This went on for four great days. The boat ran like clock work, crew were fun and helpful, and importantly the diving was good. We missed out on seeing the big stuff eg reef sharks, mantas, whale sharks. Feb - April is Manta and whale shark season here.
But there was really rich reefs with tonnes of life, lots of baby fish that were translucent as glass and about 2 cm long covered many bombies, making them even more etherial.
Richelieu rock was a highlight, we did 3 dives here, and the first one where there was not other divers was magic!
There are a lot of boats in thailand - usually there was 1 - 6 other boats at each site with us. Some dives you saw to many divers - but most were fine.
On the last dive a school of about 20 bat fish joined us for 30 minutes, and followed us from 25 metres all the way up to the surface. They were so curious - felt like being followed by a pack of very cute puppies!
Overall wonderful four days diving!
Oh - there was a group of Forteen germans and ousten a norwiegn who lived in London with me on the boat. Ousten was my english speaking friend. The germans were all from the same town in Germany, and went on diving trips together each year - very cool.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Tea in the park
As I was waiting around for a couple of hours for my shot I went for a wander. In a large park there were loads of people sitting round drinking iced tea and coffee - with not a store in sight.
I asked a guy where he got his drink - and he pointed me to the man who ran the show. I ordered a tea, and the young guy pulled up a bit on news paper for me to sit with him and his friends. They were uni students - hanging out in the park. We chatted away for a while, and a guy came back on a scooter with a drinks tray full of about 8 drinks. Iced tea was great - and I found out later free. We chatted for a while and then total panic broke out! people flew in all directions and were knocking each other over in the process of getting to their scooters.
I had no idea what was happening.
There were parking inspectors at the end of the park, and they were booking everyone with scooters on the pavement. (The only place to park). So within about 30 seconds 50 people and the scooters vanished. The traffic cops left about 10 mins later. Within a minute of them leaving everyone came back, scooters back on the pavement. people back with coffee!
I asked a guy where he got his drink - and he pointed me to the man who ran the show. I ordered a tea, and the young guy pulled up a bit on news paper for me to sit with him and his friends. They were uni students - hanging out in the park. We chatted away for a while, and a guy came back on a scooter with a drinks tray full of about 8 drinks. Iced tea was great - and I found out later free. We chatted for a while and then total panic broke out! people flew in all directions and were knocking each other over in the process of getting to their scooters.
I had no idea what was happening.
There were parking inspectors at the end of the park, and they were booking everyone with scooters on the pavement. (The only place to park). So within about 30 seconds 50 people and the scooters vanished. The traffic cops left about 10 mins later. Within a minute of them leaving everyone came back, scooters back on the pavement. people back with coffee!
Helen and Anthony and food
Thankfully Helen and Anthony, who got to Saigon a couple of days before me had booked me a room where they were staying.
They love food - so the food tour of saigon began the next day.
Had shot the next day, and we went to dinner my new favorite restaurant (will come back an insert name). THey have great Che! ANd it is in a sprawling french villa. This place is so busy and so efficent - it is a wonderfully run machine with great atmosphere and food.
The next day it was the obligatory egg and baggette for breaky, and then Vietnamese pancakes for lunch. The tables were glass toped with carved wooden scenes, the panacakes were so thin and both the coconut shoot, prawn and pork, and the mixed mushroom prawn and pork were great. They had avocado juice to - and great rice paper rolls.
We went back to rooms - watched tv - then went out to dinner - back to the same place. On the way we walked past the majestic hotel, which I had read about in the Harold Stephenson book - It was nice, but nothing compares to the Fullerton in Singapore!
Yep good day! Saigon has great cuisine!
They love food - so the food tour of saigon began the next day.
Had shot the next day, and we went to dinner my new favorite restaurant (will come back an insert name). THey have great Che! ANd it is in a sprawling french villa. This place is so busy and so efficent - it is a wonderfully run machine with great atmosphere and food.
The next day it was the obligatory egg and baggette for breaky, and then Vietnamese pancakes for lunch. The tables were glass toped with carved wooden scenes, the panacakes were so thin and both the coconut shoot, prawn and pork, and the mixed mushroom prawn and pork were great. They had avocado juice to - and great rice paper rolls.
We went back to rooms - watched tv - then went out to dinner - back to the same place. On the way we walked past the majestic hotel, which I had read about in the Harold Stephenson book - It was nice, but nothing compares to the Fullerton in Singapore!
Yep good day! Saigon has great cuisine!
James Bond style arrival to Saigon
On getting to Saigon, I was part of the biggest traffic jam I have ever seen in my life!
It was grid lock in all direction - even to scooters could not move on the main roads for a couple of hours. I got a cab from the airport and after sitting in the same place for around and hour, of ok driving about 10 metres, I decided that a scooter was a better option.
So, Loaded with gear I set out to find a motor cycle taxi. For once there was none to found! I searhed with the help of - wait for it - friendly locals!!! People in Saigon are the best in all Vietnam! FIrst an old guy, then a muslim girl who took me from the market down a few alleys and pointed me at a gridlocked bridge - eg not even scooters moving. There was a taxi there but he as asking to much so - onto the bridge I go.
The "foot path" was an extension of the road- eg another route for the scooters. I managed to cross and lo and behold there was a moto taxi. We quickly negotiated a good rate, and I jumped on. Mmmmm is that a bar? Oh no it is my driver. There was a distinct aroma of booze, but 2 hours into a 30min commute and with no other options in sight off we go! I should mention we were on a motor bike - eg - more power than a scooter.
This is where the james bond bit starts. In the last bond, there was a chase scene through alleys, I now feel that I have lived that experience.
We drove through the incoming traffic and got into a system of narrow alleys - zooming along- out into a barely moving one way street, with us and only us going against the traffic, back into lanes, more one way streets (us going against traffic), alley alley, footpath, one way street. The alleys are full of 90 degree turns and if passing another scooter you pretty much brush legs.......The bike was at full throttle, it was dark, there were stops and starts, and the driver was on one hell of a mission.
Eventually we got onto the roads, with us going same direction as traffic, and powered towards the hotel.
I should have been more scared, but it was so darned cool!
Welcome to Saigon!
It was grid lock in all direction - even to scooters could not move on the main roads for a couple of hours. I got a cab from the airport and after sitting in the same place for around and hour, of ok driving about 10 metres, I decided that a scooter was a better option.
So, Loaded with gear I set out to find a motor cycle taxi. For once there was none to found! I searhed with the help of - wait for it - friendly locals!!! People in Saigon are the best in all Vietnam! FIrst an old guy, then a muslim girl who took me from the market down a few alleys and pointed me at a gridlocked bridge - eg not even scooters moving. There was a taxi there but he as asking to much so - onto the bridge I go.
The "foot path" was an extension of the road- eg another route for the scooters. I managed to cross and lo and behold there was a moto taxi. We quickly negotiated a good rate, and I jumped on. Mmmmm is that a bar? Oh no it is my driver. There was a distinct aroma of booze, but 2 hours into a 30min commute and with no other options in sight off we go! I should mention we were on a motor bike - eg - more power than a scooter.
This is where the james bond bit starts. In the last bond, there was a chase scene through alleys, I now feel that I have lived that experience.
We drove through the incoming traffic and got into a system of narrow alleys - zooming along- out into a barely moving one way street, with us and only us going against the traffic, back into lanes, more one way streets (us going against traffic), alley alley, footpath, one way street. The alleys are full of 90 degree turns and if passing another scooter you pretty much brush legs.......The bike was at full throttle, it was dark, there were stops and starts, and the driver was on one hell of a mission.
Eventually we got onto the roads, with us going same direction as traffic, and powered towards the hotel.
I should have been more scared, but it was so darned cool!
Welcome to Saigon!
Anger management
The last 2 weeks has pushed me to new and hopefully not to be seen to often levels of anger. But knowing that there is an out has made it better!
Ar thailand.
I will not be recommending vietnam as a destination.
Ar thailand.
I will not be recommending vietnam as a destination.
Vietnam sucks: The Floods and Rip offs and hassels
In retrospect we were in Hanoi for the worst floods in 25 years.
And the rain continued in Hue, and was only a bit better in Hoi An.
I meet Helen and Anthony here, in the streets of Hue, walking down the street looking not as happy as last time I had seen them. We sat down and confessed to each other how much we were hating the experience of travelling in VIetnam, and all thinking of going home cause it was so bad. (More on that later). They have travelled the globe for over a year and this was the country that has been the least pleasant, as far rip off attempts and hassels. It was good to know that i was not alone!
Katherine and my experience of vietnam is not great. People try to rip you off in every transaction, you ar viewed as a walking purse here more so than anyother country I have been to.
The best of the lastest of many many many encounters was in the hotel at Hoi An. We had a room with air con for one night, then no air con for four nights. The receptionist denied us telling her we did not need aircon. And pulled in the house cleaners who said that they could tell we had used air con, when we never had. The house cleaning staff had observed this when cleaning our room - which they did not do once. So this resulted in at least an hour of failed reasoning - before walking out the slamming the money we should have paid (not the inflated price) on the counter. Katherine tells me she got a high five in the street from a Canadian who had watched the encounter. Interestingly, he and his partner, and others they have meet are all cutting their time in Vietnam short. As we are. Every one here just seems to be counting down til getting the 30 days for the thai visa.
Phew it is out the system and I go to thailand in 3 days :)
And the rain continued in Hue, and was only a bit better in Hoi An.
I meet Helen and Anthony here, in the streets of Hue, walking down the street looking not as happy as last time I had seen them. We sat down and confessed to each other how much we were hating the experience of travelling in VIetnam, and all thinking of going home cause it was so bad. (More on that later). They have travelled the globe for over a year and this was the country that has been the least pleasant, as far rip off attempts and hassels. It was good to know that i was not alone!
Katherine and my experience of vietnam is not great. People try to rip you off in every transaction, you ar viewed as a walking purse here more so than anyother country I have been to.
The best of the lastest of many many many encounters was in the hotel at Hoi An. We had a room with air con for one night, then no air con for four nights. The receptionist denied us telling her we did not need aircon. And pulled in the house cleaners who said that they could tell we had used air con, when we never had. The house cleaning staff had observed this when cleaning our room - which they did not do once. So this resulted in at least an hour of failed reasoning - before walking out the slamming the money we should have paid (not the inflated price) on the counter. Katherine tells me she got a high five in the street from a Canadian who had watched the encounter. Interestingly, he and his partner, and others they have meet are all cutting their time in Vietnam short. As we are. Every one here just seems to be counting down til getting the 30 days for the thai visa.
Phew it is out the system and I go to thailand in 3 days :)
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Hanoi
First impression of Hanoi is the mental traffic, and second is flooding and rain.
I was afraid in the taxi from the airport to the hotel - nay terrified. It takes a lot to make me scared in a vechile!
It has just stoped raining for a few hours for the first time in many days.
I can tell you about movies on HBO. eg wild things, and one with the olson twins. About walking through streets close to knee deep in water. Of being unable to get a taxi at 4:40pm (peak hour and wet) and walking home through flooded streets being pelted by water from cars and motor bikes, and of having nothing to change into cause clothes are all wet! Of pregnant women stealing your cab, and taxis so full of smoke that you really truely cant breath!
Yep not in a great mood.
And cannot leave Hanoi cause the train is canceled due to flooding!
I am so glad there is a huge drought in Australia because rain brings out the worst in me! In desperation I bought a red umbrella with roses on it! But it keeps the rain off.
I was afraid in the taxi from the airport to the hotel - nay terrified. It takes a lot to make me scared in a vechile!
It has just stoped raining for a few hours for the first time in many days.
I can tell you about movies on HBO. eg wild things, and one with the olson twins. About walking through streets close to knee deep in water. Of being unable to get a taxi at 4:40pm (peak hour and wet) and walking home through flooded streets being pelted by water from cars and motor bikes, and of having nothing to change into cause clothes are all wet! Of pregnant women stealing your cab, and taxis so full of smoke that you really truely cant breath!
Yep not in a great mood.
And cannot leave Hanoi cause the train is canceled due to flooding!
I am so glad there is a huge drought in Australia because rain brings out the worst in me! In desperation I bought a red umbrella with roses on it! But it keeps the rain off.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Treking company blog post
I started a thread on the thorn tree about the bad experiences with the treking company, and lonely planet now have the attention of the company.
Good Oh!
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?threadID=1684860&tstart=15
Good Oh!
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?threadID=1684860&tstart=15
Rabies: the morning after
Morning emails from family who contacted my docter overnight greeted me with the news that I actually did not get a Rabies immunisation before leaving Melbourne, it was everything else but Rabies and Japanese E.
So, back to docter. I have a compitant French docter this time, but he lacks tack. "Rabies is 100% Fatal" is the quote I took away with me. Said with as much emotion as discussing the latest weather report. So he also tells me that I need to have immunoglobin today, and another 4 injections over the next 4 weeks. Fun!
The SOS Clinic does not have immunoglobin, and there is a world wide shortage apparently. So off to France Hospital I go. This is another private hospital, for foriegners and rice locals, staffed by vietnamese, and what wonderful professionals they are after the last place.
They only have 2 viles and need to get a third from somewhere else, another hospital....I think I have most of the immunoglobin for rabies in Hanoi in my bottom at the moment. So I go off for an hour and potter back for my two injections.
"They will be a bit painful"
They really were!
During hospital visits heard of tourists getting bites from monkeys on Cat Ba Island and needing Rabies immunisation, and an American man being badly attacked by a buffalo in Halong bay area.....apparently monkeys are riddled with Rabies, there you go!
Off to rest now.......
An dream of killing all maltese terriers on the face of the earth!
So, back to docter. I have a compitant French docter this time, but he lacks tack. "Rabies is 100% Fatal" is the quote I took away with me. Said with as much emotion as discussing the latest weather report. So he also tells me that I need to have immunoglobin today, and another 4 injections over the next 4 weeks. Fun!
The SOS Clinic does not have immunoglobin, and there is a world wide shortage apparently. So off to France Hospital I go. This is another private hospital, for foriegners and rice locals, staffed by vietnamese, and what wonderful professionals they are after the last place.
They only have 2 viles and need to get a third from somewhere else, another hospital....I think I have most of the immunoglobin for rabies in Hanoi in my bottom at the moment. So I go off for an hour and potter back for my two injections.
"They will be a bit painful"
They really were!
During hospital visits heard of tourists getting bites from monkeys on Cat Ba Island and needing Rabies immunisation, and an American man being badly attacked by a buffalo in Halong bay area.....apparently monkeys are riddled with Rabies, there you go!
Off to rest now.......
An dream of killing all maltese terriers on the face of the earth!
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Wanted Dead or Alive - preferably satayed
In Hanoi for an hour when.....
Imagine this dog, twenty years older, with long hair and brown teeth.
I will walk you through what hell such a nasty beast can cause a tourist! All I can remember are the dogs brown teeth and the laughing owners as it ran towards me and niped me on the leg.
I was a little slow on the uptake, eg did not kick it, and only realised about half an hour later that the dog had broken the skin. Knowing that Rabies is around I decided to go to the docter.
Being 11pm ish at night I was walking through the streets of Hanoi that were closing down in this area anyway, only to be charged by a beast similar to this, see below, but more brown
So that is two dog attacks, nay toy dog attacks, in just over an hour!
I get to the SOS medical facility (Read rip off for europeans run by incompitent staff) and got a vaccination. An appointment out of hours cost $100- 180 USD with medication extra.
Imagine this dog, twenty years older, with long hair and brown teeth.
I will walk you through what hell such a nasty beast can cause a tourist! All I can remember are the dogs brown teeth and the laughing owners as it ran towards me and niped me on the leg.
I was a little slow on the uptake, eg did not kick it, and only realised about half an hour later that the dog had broken the skin. Knowing that Rabies is around I decided to go to the docter.
Being 11pm ish at night I was walking through the streets of Hanoi that were closing down in this area anyway, only to be charged by a beast similar to this, see below, but more brown
So that is two dog attacks, nay toy dog attacks, in just over an hour!
I get to the SOS medical facility (Read rip off for europeans run by incompitent staff) and got a vaccination. An appointment out of hours cost $100- 180 USD with medication extra.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
A day in the life
2:00am Not sleeping well, it is dark, the mattress is hard and the rooster is crowing...
4:10am Still not sleeping well, must have had msg again...darn. Do love this kitch bed spread. There is no light, must be cause the mountains next to the chinese border are outside.
6:00am Still to weak to ride in the heat, new plan, will get as far as I can to Luang prabang on bus.
6:35am Tuk Tuk to Luang Nam Ta! Score the first bus leaves at 8am, I am paying the same price and it is just me. I am going to make the 9:30 bus to Luang Prabang! I am blessed.
7:30am Stop at village to pick up 8 women and produce
7:50am More women, more produce
8:30am Surely there is no more room in the taxi but we have stopped and are waiting...darn...
9:00am on the Main street, dash for tuk tuk to the bus station.
9:10am get to bus station! What a cue!
9:12am Get a bagette
9:12am Hey there is the argentinian couple from Karadiri. They live in Barcelona and are travelling for a year. Cool, first people I have meet twice.
9:30am Bus is meant to leave, but they are packing the minibus, moving people out of the big bus. There is not enough room! 10- 12 hours in the packed mini bnus. No way.
9:35am Myself and the couple start to raise hell, trying to explain we dont fit...."The bus is broken" we are told, get in the mini bus. Classic lie meaning we dont want to use bus as there are not enough people. We fiight with the people from the bus company - it is getting animated.
10:00am The fight is gaining momemtum now, everyone at the station is involved. We are yelling across the crowd. People have come to watch.
10:15am We are tag teaming on "talking" to the station manager. Argentinian guy says "its a fucking lie" within a few centimetres of laos mans face, this is one of the first times the man looses his composure. He smiles at everything you say and says you must wait! Makes us even angrier!!
10:25am We get people to get out of mini bus and stand in front of big bus.
10:30am We are all on the big bus and on the way to Luang Prabang.
1:30pm stop for lunch.
7:00pm get to luang prabang- Arr civilisation!
7:30pm get to guest house, suprise Katherine and go out for dinner. WIth the excitement of so much food to choose from eat spring rolls and indian. Feel ill after (most food and only food not bread have eatten in three days).
9:30pm fall asleep.
4:10am Still not sleeping well, must have had msg again...darn. Do love this kitch bed spread. There is no light, must be cause the mountains next to the chinese border are outside.
6:00am Still to weak to ride in the heat, new plan, will get as far as I can to Luang prabang on bus.
6:35am Tuk Tuk to Luang Nam Ta! Score the first bus leaves at 8am, I am paying the same price and it is just me. I am going to make the 9:30 bus to Luang Prabang! I am blessed.
7:30am Stop at village to pick up 8 women and produce
7:50am More women, more produce
8:30am Surely there is no more room in the taxi but we have stopped and are waiting...darn...
9:00am on the Main street, dash for tuk tuk to the bus station.
9:10am get to bus station! What a cue!
9:12am Get a bagette
9:12am Hey there is the argentinian couple from Karadiri. They live in Barcelona and are travelling for a year. Cool, first people I have meet twice.
9:30am Bus is meant to leave, but they are packing the minibus, moving people out of the big bus. There is not enough room! 10- 12 hours in the packed mini bnus. No way.
9:35am Myself and the couple start to raise hell, trying to explain we dont fit...."The bus is broken" we are told, get in the mini bus. Classic lie meaning we dont want to use bus as there are not enough people. We fiight with the people from the bus company - it is getting animated.
10:00am The fight is gaining momemtum now, everyone at the station is involved. We are yelling across the crowd. People have come to watch.
10:15am We are tag teaming on "talking" to the station manager. Argentinian guy says "its a fucking lie" within a few centimetres of laos mans face, this is one of the first times the man looses his composure. He smiles at everything you say and says you must wait! Makes us even angrier!!
10:25am We get people to get out of mini bus and stand in front of big bus.
10:30am We are all on the big bus and on the way to Luang Prabang.
1:30pm stop for lunch.
7:00pm get to luang prabang- Arr civilisation!
7:30pm get to guest house, suprise Katherine and go out for dinner. WIth the excitement of so much food to choose from eat spring rolls and indian. Feel ill after (most food and only food not bread have eatten in three days).
9:30pm fall asleep.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
National Parks in North Laos
Morning in the national park in northern loas
"Woof Woof"
"What is that"
"A barking deer"
Five minutes later
"Bang" gun shot.
Repeat many times over.
Also, I think that the amount of cleared land equals the amount of forested land, as in order to eat the people need to farm.
Oh the nature!
"Woof Woof"
"What is that"
"A barking deer"
Five minutes later
"Bang" gun shot.
Repeat many times over.
Also, I think that the amount of cleared land equals the amount of forested land, as in order to eat the people need to farm.
Oh the nature!
Hiking, Vommiting and more, and rats
On the spur of the moment decided to go on a 7 day hike in the north of Laos.
Got a 10 hour bus to Luang Nam Tha, a nothing town in the middle of the country side. I had two days hiking, with Evan and american, and the local guide Thuang.
We hiked about 4-5 hours a day a lot of it up hill, in the heat, with about 8 kilos on our backs. It was great being out in the forest, it was forest rather than jungle, and bathing in streams, waling through bamboo forests, feeling like you are in the middle of no where. Stayed in a hut in the forest one night, used for trekking. The second night staying in an abandoned village. Many of the more remote villages have been moved by the governements to the roads over the last 10 years, so they can have access to electricity and get jobs. Well that is the catch cry any way! They people were still farming the site of the old village and living there for the harvest.....it sounds like a policy that is quite hollow.
So here we are, beautiful day hiking, swimming in rivers, etc. I am exhausted, and have dinner then go to bed. But what is this - "There are many Rats here" - says Thuang as we settle into the beds....those who know me will understand the impact of that statement. Oh and it was not an understatement............I heard them all night, very close inside and outside the hut.....hell! Well that would have been hellish in itself but at 7:30 my indigestion turned into vomitting, which turned into multiple vommiting and diahria, which lasted til 3am.
In the middle of no where, with rats.
This was not a fun night. It certainly was not fun for evan as we were under the same mosquito net....or Thuang who gallently did a few clean ups when I did not make it outside.
So with no sleep, dehydrated, I started the 3 our walk out. Was not drinking water as I suspected the boiled water was the cause(Later through polling to be proved correct). That was a fin walk in the heat mostly up hill! Meet a wonderful chap who was riding his bike to the harvest fields who gave me a lift part of the way there. He was my hero of the day, I was on the back of the scooter navigating the step hills and gravel roads holding on to the saw straped to the back of the bike.
Spent the next couple of days doing not much in Luang Nam Tha and Maung Sing.
Will go hiking with imodiem next time.
Got a 10 hour bus to Luang Nam Tha, a nothing town in the middle of the country side. I had two days hiking, with Evan and american, and the local guide Thuang.
We hiked about 4-5 hours a day a lot of it up hill, in the heat, with about 8 kilos on our backs. It was great being out in the forest, it was forest rather than jungle, and bathing in streams, waling through bamboo forests, feeling like you are in the middle of no where. Stayed in a hut in the forest one night, used for trekking. The second night staying in an abandoned village. Many of the more remote villages have been moved by the governements to the roads over the last 10 years, so they can have access to electricity and get jobs. Well that is the catch cry any way! They people were still farming the site of the old village and living there for the harvest.....it sounds like a policy that is quite hollow.
So here we are, beautiful day hiking, swimming in rivers, etc. I am exhausted, and have dinner then go to bed. But what is this - "There are many Rats here" - says Thuang as we settle into the beds....those who know me will understand the impact of that statement. Oh and it was not an understatement............I heard them all night, very close inside and outside the hut.....hell! Well that would have been hellish in itself but at 7:30 my indigestion turned into vomitting, which turned into multiple vommiting and diahria, which lasted til 3am.
In the middle of no where, with rats.
This was not a fun night. It certainly was not fun for evan as we were under the same mosquito net....or Thuang who gallently did a few clean ups when I did not make it outside.
So with no sleep, dehydrated, I started the 3 our walk out. Was not drinking water as I suspected the boiled water was the cause(Later through polling to be proved correct). That was a fin walk in the heat mostly up hill! Meet a wonderful chap who was riding his bike to the harvest fields who gave me a lift part of the way there. He was my hero of the day, I was on the back of the scooter navigating the step hills and gravel roads holding on to the saw straped to the back of the bike.
Spent the next couple of days doing not much in Luang Nam Tha and Maung Sing.
Will go hiking with imodiem next time.
Luang Prabang
This is such a picturesque city. French provical houses and buildings nestled next to the Mekong, and surrounded by hills. Very good place to just hang out, and you can get silver jewelery made.
All in all my favorite small city so far. It is a good place to take a break from travelling and just take it easy.
Was here for the buddah easter, each wat was decorated in hundreds of paper lanterns, hanging and on the ground. There was a prosession of paper lantern boats, and dragons through the town with explosions of fire works, bands, tradiationally dressed 'mascots' for each wat etc. The procession made its way explosively down the main street and parked at the main mosque where the mekong and the Nam something river meet. Everywhere around the city the banks to these huge rivers is step, and inaccessible. The wat has a series of step and wide staircases that lead down to the river. The boats where carried one by one down the stairs and attached to long boats in the Mekong, before being towed away.
At the same time everyone bought 'flower boats' These were flower arrangements the size of cakes that everyone buys, they have candles and incense on them. Each looks extravagent, I will have to show you the photos. Everyone in the town takes there boat down the stairs and launches it into the river - it brings you good luck for the year.
I lit my first fire works in a long time, as instructed by the local kids. There where explosions everywhere for the days before and after. Farangs were the target of many firework missiles of the small but very loud variety!
I was speaking to an Australian girl who saw a gang of young monks around 12 who threw fireworks at the boat she and her boyfriend were travelling in and mooned them. The monks are not always reverant!
I still have to go to the buddah cave where people store there buddah statues of all sizes, and visit to clean them once a year.
All in all my favorite small city so far. It is a good place to take a break from travelling and just take it easy.
Was here for the buddah easter, each wat was decorated in hundreds of paper lanterns, hanging and on the ground. There was a prosession of paper lantern boats, and dragons through the town with explosions of fire works, bands, tradiationally dressed 'mascots' for each wat etc. The procession made its way explosively down the main street and parked at the main mosque where the mekong and the Nam something river meet. Everywhere around the city the banks to these huge rivers is step, and inaccessible. The wat has a series of step and wide staircases that lead down to the river. The boats where carried one by one down the stairs and attached to long boats in the Mekong, before being towed away.
At the same time everyone bought 'flower boats' These were flower arrangements the size of cakes that everyone buys, they have candles and incense on them. Each looks extravagent, I will have to show you the photos. Everyone in the town takes there boat down the stairs and launches it into the river - it brings you good luck for the year.
I lit my first fire works in a long time, as instructed by the local kids. There where explosions everywhere for the days before and after. Farangs were the target of many firework missiles of the small but very loud variety!
I was speaking to an Australian girl who saw a gang of young monks around 12 who threw fireworks at the boat she and her boyfriend were travelling in and mooned them. The monks are not always reverant!
I still have to go to the buddah cave where people store there buddah statues of all sizes, and visit to clean them once a year.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Thai cooking school
I just had a great days cooking at a thai farm outside of chiang mai.
It was the way cooking is in your dreams, all your ingrediants appear beside you on a tray, the city is in the middle of rural thai area, and surrounded by herb gardens etc. Dishes are wisked away to be cleaned, and everything is portion controlled. Oh and someone else cooks the rice...
Made the best green curry, tom ka chicken, spring rolls, mango and sticky rice, and a chicken and basil dish. We ate our food for lunch and afternoon tea, as you can imagine afternoon tea was hard to fit in but the mango and sticky rice is worth pushing through for.
mmm must be time to go and drink mohitos with the cooking class gang.....
It was the way cooking is in your dreams, all your ingrediants appear beside you on a tray, the city is in the middle of rural thai area, and surrounded by herb gardens etc. Dishes are wisked away to be cleaned, and everything is portion controlled. Oh and someone else cooks the rice...
Made the best green curry, tom ka chicken, spring rolls, mango and sticky rice, and a chicken and basil dish. We ate our food for lunch and afternoon tea, as you can imagine afternoon tea was hard to fit in but the mango and sticky rice is worth pushing through for.
mmm must be time to go and drink mohitos with the cooking class gang.....
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Food, Fashion and Great Outdoors
Am meeting many women who travel to enjoy the food, go shopping and get out into nature. At this point and time I do not think there are any more greater motivations you could have to travel the globe.
Of course most men travel for similar reasons but the love of shopping is not quiet as intense!
Katherine is starting to have fashion design dreams...
Of course most men travel for similar reasons but the love of shopping is not quiet as intense!
Katherine is starting to have fashion design dreams...
Trash
Girls I just read "3 weeks in paris" a wonderful novel by barbara taylor bradford. It is a novel about 4 women approaching 30, all with very successful careers who have a degree of turmoil in their personal lives.
What links them is that they all studied in Paris together, with an esteemed teacher, before they had a quarrel and all fell out.
It is a tale of love, pain, paris, glamour and true love. Highly recommended holiday reading!!
What links them is that they all studied in Paris together, with an esteemed teacher, before they had a quarrel and all fell out.
It is a tale of love, pain, paris, glamour and true love. Highly recommended holiday reading!!
pairadise
Pai is green, mountainous, a bit like a byron in the hills in thailand I imagine. (Have not got to byron yet).
Rode my first elephant, its name was Phenon and she was a 20ish year old very tall elephant. We strolled through the jungle and then played in the river. Some elephants wallowed in the water, prettly much lying down and squirting people with water. My elephant was not so keen on that. She needed some coaxing to get in the water, then coaxing to spray me with her trunk.
But there was one move she quite enjoyed, I was sitting behind the ears holding on tight to each one with my hands. She would push her head into the water and then shake her body furiously in an attempt to dislodge me. I managed to stay on once or twice, but then gave up hanging on and flew into the river. This move was repeated many times. I now (2 days later) Have the aches and pains I am sure most rodeo riders have! But is was really cool! If I could ealk properly today I would do it again.
I have hired a red scooter and am zooming around the countryside on it. I love the open road on the scooter - it is a blast. There is not to much traffic and no one goes over 60 - so you feel like king of the road. Today I am tootling up paths through valleys of rice paddies, and just crossed a world war two bridge. On the other side of this bridge is a coffee shop with amazing espresso and free fast internet - all good!
The rural areas, and jungle around pai is gorgeous.
Our accomodation is "Pairadise" a group of bunglaws away from the town and around a spring water pool. Not bad really, waking up and looking over the bungalows to the mountains, covered in mist.
Rode my first elephant, its name was Phenon and she was a 20ish year old very tall elephant. We strolled through the jungle and then played in the river. Some elephants wallowed in the water, prettly much lying down and squirting people with water. My elephant was not so keen on that. She needed some coaxing to get in the water, then coaxing to spray me with her trunk.
But there was one move she quite enjoyed, I was sitting behind the ears holding on tight to each one with my hands. She would push her head into the water and then shake her body furiously in an attempt to dislodge me. I managed to stay on once or twice, but then gave up hanging on and flew into the river. This move was repeated many times. I now (2 days later) Have the aches and pains I am sure most rodeo riders have! But is was really cool! If I could ealk properly today I would do it again.
I have hired a red scooter and am zooming around the countryside on it. I love the open road on the scooter - it is a blast. There is not to much traffic and no one goes over 60 - so you feel like king of the road. Today I am tootling up paths through valleys of rice paddies, and just crossed a world war two bridge. On the other side of this bridge is a coffee shop with amazing espresso and free fast internet - all good!
The rural areas, and jungle around pai is gorgeous.
Our accomodation is "Pairadise" a group of bunglaws away from the town and around a spring water pool. Not bad really, waking up and looking over the bungalows to the mountains, covered in mist.
Fashion design/ chiang mai
Chiang mai has great fabric markets, and tailors! So Katherine and I spent a day shopping for material then going to a dress maker who we were refered to by some travellers, who meet other travellers who used her every year.
I am getting a simple shift dress and top made out of a pale green striped cotton, and Katherine is getting silk bodices made...we see them tomorrow. I also bought this crazy green material with pink and gold floral pattern, which I will get made into a dress and a top.
Apparently the silk in laos is amazing, and good in vietnam to - so we should have good wardrobes by the time we return home!
We are now avid viewers of the fashion pages!
Not much else to say about chiang mai - it does not have much of a 'face' as a city. We have to spend a few more days there so I will do cooking school and find a mediation class....not much sight seeing to do.
I am getting a simple shift dress and top made out of a pale green striped cotton, and Katherine is getting silk bodices made...we see them tomorrow. I also bought this crazy green material with pink and gold floral pattern, which I will get made into a dress and a top.
Apparently the silk in laos is amazing, and good in vietnam to - so we should have good wardrobes by the time we return home!
We are now avid viewers of the fashion pages!
Not much else to say about chiang mai - it does not have much of a 'face' as a city. We have to spend a few more days there so I will do cooking school and find a mediation class....not much sight seeing to do.
Katherines influence
On the islands, and while diving there is an established pattern, Wake up, eat, dive, sleep, eat, dive, drink, eat, drink. This is a pattern that I am very comfortable with.
So by the time I meet Katherine I was a avid cocktail hourer. Katherine does not drink so I am now back to a beer with dinner, which, looking at 3.5 months travelling, seems like a better pattern for the majority of the holiday.
But I look forward to the cocktail hour returning on the beaches!
So by the time I meet Katherine I was a avid cocktail hourer. Katherine does not drink so I am now back to a beer with dinner, which, looking at 3.5 months travelling, seems like a better pattern for the majority of the holiday.
But I look forward to the cocktail hour returning on the beaches!
bangkok vs KL vs Singapore
I am suprised to say the singapore at first experience is very much my favorite city of the three. It is beautiful in areas, others not so but always interesting. It has so much amazing architecture, and really intense areas of ethic diversity, eg little india.
Bangkok felt just like another city. But had great shopping! Katherine and I cruised the malls for a day looking at all the crazy fashions, all a little small for me, Katherine managed to fit into a few things that looked great, all these ruched shorts with gathers and puckers everywhere. There are loads of girly dresses with heaps of detailing, and funky - but tiny - tshirts.
We stayed at suk 11 which had great personality but really smelly bathrooms.
Did the tourist pilgramage to the great palace and the lying down buddah - lying down buddah was awesome! Huge, gold, abstract in its simplicity.
Bangkok felt just like another city. But had great shopping! Katherine and I cruised the malls for a day looking at all the crazy fashions, all a little small for me, Katherine managed to fit into a few things that looked great, all these ruched shorts with gathers and puckers everywhere. There are loads of girly dresses with heaps of detailing, and funky - but tiny - tshirts.
We stayed at suk 11 which had great personality but really smelly bathrooms.
Did the tourist pilgramage to the great palace and the lying down buddah - lying down buddah was awesome! Huge, gold, abstract in its simplicity.
Manilla - part 2
You will all be pleased to know it was the common cold not one of the harder tropical ailments!
I decided that manilla was a great place to watch television and eat great food, so caught up on cable tv and my rest, and had some truely delicious meals.
Chinese dumplings and dried beans - amazing
Japanese - sitting at the sushi bar as a huge tuna is cut into chunks for sashimi and there are octopus tenticals the size of my wrist! I had a soba bento where you mixed a sauce made from a base, to which you added yam paste, a very small raw bird egg, spring onions and wasabi, then dipped the noodles in. This was great, as was the sushi, tempura etc....
Middle eastern- Labna and bread - so welcome after so much rice and lack of dairy!
Went out for a beer by myself one night, there was a pub with a balcony and a girl playing guitar and singing she was great. There was a group of about 6 local guys sitting opposite me, and they were distraught that I was along so had me join them. They were great - all from the islands, who had come to Manilla to look for work they had all studied software engineering and wanted to work in dubai. We drank beer, I got offers of marriage for my cousins! They were quite handsome and fun guys if you are interested Lesil and marilla! They were very impressed that one cousin was an opera singer.
They had all travelled a lot, most had been to australia and had relatives there, I left them to their bar crawl and went home to bed, to get rid of the rest of the flu.
Saw a couple of tourist sites, old spanish town etc, but was not remarkable...left manilla with dining the only reason to return - and you can do that many other places!
I decided that manilla was a great place to watch television and eat great food, so caught up on cable tv and my rest, and had some truely delicious meals.
Chinese dumplings and dried beans - amazing
Japanese - sitting at the sushi bar as a huge tuna is cut into chunks for sashimi and there are octopus tenticals the size of my wrist! I had a soba bento where you mixed a sauce made from a base, to which you added yam paste, a very small raw bird egg, spring onions and wasabi, then dipped the noodles in. This was great, as was the sushi, tempura etc....
Middle eastern- Labna and bread - so welcome after so much rice and lack of dairy!
Went out for a beer by myself one night, there was a pub with a balcony and a girl playing guitar and singing she was great. There was a group of about 6 local guys sitting opposite me, and they were distraught that I was along so had me join them. They were great - all from the islands, who had come to Manilla to look for work they had all studied software engineering and wanted to work in dubai. We drank beer, I got offers of marriage for my cousins! They were quite handsome and fun guys if you are interested Lesil and marilla! They were very impressed that one cousin was an opera singer.
They had all travelled a lot, most had been to australia and had relatives there, I left them to their bar crawl and went home to bed, to get rid of the rest of the flu.
Saw a couple of tourist sites, old spanish town etc, but was not remarkable...left manilla with dining the only reason to return - and you can do that many other places!
Monday, September 29, 2008
Bits and peices
*sleepinginairports.com
*river guest house in bangkok is good
*four knights?? dive spot in New Zealand.
*river guest house in bangkok is good
*four knights?? dive spot in New Zealand.
Being over back packing
When I arrived in manilla I was feeling fluey and thinking of getting hotel. No I said, you must stay on budget. So I got the taxi to the hostel. At big interrsections there are beggers tappng on the windows. WHen we got in the vacinity of the hostel, I was so over the hustle and bustle, the poverty, and the hustlers that I drove past and directed the driver out ot Malate and into Makarti - basically a security patrolled central area of the city.
At the time I was unabe to have a - where have you been conversation, and was about the stab the next tout or sex tourist so thought that a hotel room with a tv, close to star bucks and the mall was the answer. I was there late so all resaurants had closed, so ate McDonalds...Chicken burgers taste the same in Manilla.
Woke up and had star bucks - arrr I feel human again. Star buck is one of the only places I can get soy milk!
The green belt felt like a gated community. Restaurants, and a mall with no one in it.
I drew breath and went back to backpackng the next day.
Of course flu symptoms are the same for maleria and dengy fever, so I had a moment hoping I had niether, but I feel better today. I have not been in real malaria zones either.
One more day in Manilla then on to meet Katherine in Bangkok!
At the time I was unabe to have a - where have you been conversation, and was about the stab the next tout or sex tourist so thought that a hotel room with a tv, close to star bucks and the mall was the answer. I was there late so all resaurants had closed, so ate McDonalds...Chicken burgers taste the same in Manilla.
Woke up and had star bucks - arrr I feel human again. Star buck is one of the only places I can get soy milk!
The green belt felt like a gated community. Restaurants, and a mall with no one in it.
I drew breath and went back to backpackng the next day.
Of course flu symptoms are the same for maleria and dengy fever, so I had a moment hoping I had niether, but I feel better today. I have not been in real malaria zones either.
One more day in Manilla then on to meet Katherine in Bangkok!
How to spend a day in Cebu
There is not much to do in Cebu, and I was getting a flu/ cold, so went for low impact and indulgent. It is hot, dusty, fill of malls, and yes there are sex tourists.
*Watch mtv and bbc news in hotel room.
*I stumbled across a japanese spa and spent the afternoon there. Had a hot stone sauna, massage, manicure and pedicure.
*Do a little email
*Spend a hour or so at robinsons mall changing cebu pacific flight. Cebu pacific do not accept australian visa cards, and their phone booking cuts you off one minute before confiming. You will be pleased to know the ticket office has a sign asking you to let the one attendent know if you have been waiting more than 2 hours....
Went to the airport with Helen and Anthony then to Manilla.
*Watch mtv and bbc news in hotel room.
*I stumbled across a japanese spa and spent the afternoon there. Had a hot stone sauna, massage, manicure and pedicure.
*Do a little email
*Spend a hour or so at robinsons mall changing cebu pacific flight. Cebu pacific do not accept australian visa cards, and their phone booking cuts you off one minute before confiming. You will be pleased to know the ticket office has a sign asking you to let the one attendent know if you have been waiting more than 2 hours....
Went to the airport with Helen and Anthony then to Manilla.
Malapascua - above the water
As always seems the way I meet so many amazing people while diving. I was diving with a 50/60ish english couple Louise and Dick, and an english couple Evonne and Jamie who were around my age, Belinda and Wong a couple from singapore, and a South African couple in their early 20s.
They were great diving and drinking and dining companions for the 5 days on the island.
Lousie and Dick gave retirement a great name, they were outdoorsy sporty adventures, with a taste for the good life who were such amazing company. Evonne and Jamie were also an interesting and fun couple, in fact everyone was friendly and interesting, apart from the dive shop operators. Apparently they had run bars in San fran, the guy looked like a bouncer, and the woman called andrea was a bit hard. They were not very nice to the philippino bar staff either...anyway....back to the others.
We had lots of great conversations about travelling and diving, between all the people we had travelled the globe many times. Most people were into outdoors action, a little off the trail if possible, which I must say is my favorite destination. THese conversations were indispersed with conversatoins about the world, our countries etc. I did not know that in south africa there is load sharing, which means that there is no electricty 9am to 5pm in houses everywhere!
Also meet an American women around my age living in Manilla diving there, and Australian 2 and 3 a great couple from sydney ANthony and Helen who had already been travelling for a year though SOuth AMerica and Asia, and were heading to SE Asia. Michelle was a pilot and her stories about the sexismin the industry made my work place look like a girls club. She was the only women in 80 people in the philippines and was denied invitations to company events cause she was a woman!!!!!!!
WIth the rumor of a second cyclone approaching the island i left with the aussie couple a day early than planned. This involved a lengthy negotiation with the boat men who ripped us off (all realative but still the princible). We talked to the boat owner, the captain, their mates etc. The typical fiasco. We got a reasonable deal (but still 4 times what the locals paid) with 3 of us negotiating for an hour. When we arrived at the port at the other end, they forgot to get the money as they got carried away singing to a george micheal song blarring out from another docked boat. We were almost celebrating a small victory for the tourists when they remebered, and the row boat we were on was turned around to get the cash.
Got bus to Cebu......4 hours later arrived in a typical small asian city.
They were great diving and drinking and dining companions for the 5 days on the island.
Lousie and Dick gave retirement a great name, they were outdoorsy sporty adventures, with a taste for the good life who were such amazing company. Evonne and Jamie were also an interesting and fun couple, in fact everyone was friendly and interesting, apart from the dive shop operators. Apparently they had run bars in San fran, the guy looked like a bouncer, and the woman called andrea was a bit hard. They were not very nice to the philippino bar staff either...anyway....back to the others.
We had lots of great conversations about travelling and diving, between all the people we had travelled the globe many times. Most people were into outdoors action, a little off the trail if possible, which I must say is my favorite destination. THese conversations were indispersed with conversatoins about the world, our countries etc. I did not know that in south africa there is load sharing, which means that there is no electricty 9am to 5pm in houses everywhere!
Also meet an American women around my age living in Manilla diving there, and Australian 2 and 3 a great couple from sydney ANthony and Helen who had already been travelling for a year though SOuth AMerica and Asia, and were heading to SE Asia. Michelle was a pilot and her stories about the sexismin the industry made my work place look like a girls club. She was the only women in 80 people in the philippines and was denied invitations to company events cause she was a woman!!!!!!!
WIth the rumor of a second cyclone approaching the island i left with the aussie couple a day early than planned. This involved a lengthy negotiation with the boat men who ripped us off (all realative but still the princible). We talked to the boat owner, the captain, their mates etc. The typical fiasco. We got a reasonable deal (but still 4 times what the locals paid) with 3 of us negotiating for an hour. When we arrived at the port at the other end, they forgot to get the money as they got carried away singing to a george micheal song blarring out from another docked boat. We were almost celebrating a small victory for the tourists when they remebered, and the row boat we were on was turned around to get the cash.
Got bus to Cebu......4 hours later arrived in a typical small asian city.
Malapasca diving
The diving here was different to the indonesian sites.
It was about the big stuff, but there were still other nice dive sites.
Over the 5 days there I saw my first Manta, a gorgeous 4 m one which did many very close fly bys of us eg one metre, a Pellegic Thresher shark that was about 2m, so gorgeous it was entirely silver, totally reflective, with a tail almost as long as the body that moved like a ribbon as it swum. Like the manta it was curious, and swam past close many times. According to the great dive guides they are very friendly sharks. I noticed it had a small looking mouth, to my liking.
There were pygmy sea horses 1 cm big, 2 metre white tips, cuttlefish, gorgeous soft corals, nudibrants galore, amazing feather corals, lion fish, frog fish, bamboo shark, and a cave dive at gatu island. The visibilty was not great, but still had beautiful dives, I would like to see it in december with 30- 40 m visibility!
When we saw the reef sharks they were sleeping in a cave under a large rock. The guide chased them out for us. A 2m shark looks big under water, particulary with average visibilty. All the divers usually go close to rocks to see all the goodies on the surface, I noticed that we all avoided large dark openings for a while after that!
People are going to send me under water photos.
My body clock has totally changed, as I was up by 5am for the early shark dives, and n bed by 9:30pm - 10:00pm each night! Lots of early mornings.
It was about the big stuff, but there were still other nice dive sites.
Over the 5 days there I saw my first Manta, a gorgeous 4 m one which did many very close fly bys of us eg one metre, a Pellegic Thresher shark that was about 2m, so gorgeous it was entirely silver, totally reflective, with a tail almost as long as the body that moved like a ribbon as it swum. Like the manta it was curious, and swam past close many times. According to the great dive guides they are very friendly sharks. I noticed it had a small looking mouth, to my liking.
There were pygmy sea horses 1 cm big, 2 metre white tips, cuttlefish, gorgeous soft corals, nudibrants galore, amazing feather corals, lion fish, frog fish, bamboo shark, and a cave dive at gatu island. The visibilty was not great, but still had beautiful dives, I would like to see it in december with 30- 40 m visibility!
When we saw the reef sharks they were sleeping in a cave under a large rock. The guide chased them out for us. A 2m shark looks big under water, particulary with average visibilty. All the divers usually go close to rocks to see all the goodies on the surface, I noticed that we all avoided large dark openings for a while after that!
People are going to send me under water photos.
My body clock has totally changed, as I was up by 5am for the early shark dives, and n bed by 9:30pm - 10:00pm each night! Lots of early mornings.
Malapascua Island
I have a new turn of phrase. When a dive operator says to you "weather was not to good yesterday" (Thresher divers) this means that there is a Typhoon.
I got the the island on the tail end of the Typhoo, there was a bit of swell, but boats could still get there. Malapascua is a lot more developed than any of the places i have been in Indonesia, with beach bars, discos, resaurants etc. There are massage ladies on the beach and kids selling stuff too. It is very picture post card, plam trees, white sand and great swimming. There are 2000 - 4000 people on the island (mixed reports).
First night I got masacered by mosquitos, ended up havng a killing spree at about 4am. Still have the bites - got a new mosquito net the next day.
Didnt dive the first day, a couple staying next to me did the afternoon dive and saw 2 manta's - I started the next morning. On first day I slept, swam, walked around the island and met 3 local girls who had just finished high school and were looking for jobs as waitress's. They were bored and frustrated that they did not have the means to continue their education. We spent about 5 hours walking and talking.
Next day started diving.
I got the the island on the tail end of the Typhoo, there was a bit of swell, but boats could still get there. Malapascua is a lot more developed than any of the places i have been in Indonesia, with beach bars, discos, resaurants etc. There are massage ladies on the beach and kids selling stuff too. It is very picture post card, plam trees, white sand and great swimming. There are 2000 - 4000 people on the island (mixed reports).
First night I got masacered by mosquitos, ended up havng a killing spree at about 4am. Still have the bites - got a new mosquito net the next day.
Didnt dive the first day, a couple staying next to me did the afternoon dive and saw 2 manta's - I started the next morning. On first day I slept, swam, walked around the island and met 3 local girls who had just finished high school and were looking for jobs as waitress's. They were bored and frustrated that they did not have the means to continue their education. We spent about 5 hours walking and talking.
Next day started diving.
Post from KL - First Aussie
Forgot to mention I met the first aussie in KL - a guy from QLD called Mitch. We had a beer, cause we were both from the same country and both travelling alone.
He had an interesting life, was a plumber and did jobs in the torres straight islands.
-drinks 5 L of water before 9am cuse of the heat there
-natives eat turtle and dugongs, dugong has red meat and tastes like beef. Both animals are cought by guys who jump off boats onto their backs. Populations of both are depleting.
-australias border is only 1 km from the Papua coast
This marked the 3rd night in a row that I had gone for dinner / drinks with a guy and they offered to pay. All friendly rather than datey but, an event that if it happened even once in australia I would have had a blimp write about it in the sky. Life is different when you travel that is for sure.
In speaking to other solo travellers I have been lucky meeting people. I have eatten alone about 4 times this whole trip as I usually seem to meet people. Diving helps, common interests and all.
He had an interesting life, was a plumber and did jobs in the torres straight islands.
-drinks 5 L of water before 9am cuse of the heat there
-natives eat turtle and dugongs, dugong has red meat and tastes like beef. Both animals are cought by guys who jump off boats onto their backs. Populations of both are depleting.
-australias border is only 1 km from the Papua coast
This marked the 3rd night in a row that I had gone for dinner / drinks with a guy and they offered to pay. All friendly rather than datey but, an event that if it happened even once in australia I would have had a blimp write about it in the sky. Life is different when you travel that is for sure.
In speaking to other solo travellers I have been lucky meeting people. I have eatten alone about 4 times this whole trip as I usually seem to meet people. Diving helps, common interests and all.
Clarke
First lesson about the Country is that Clarke airport is not in the suburbs of Manilla, no it is 2.5 hours away.
It is also based in angeles, one of the hubs of sex tourism. I did not know this before I landed so off I trotted to get a ticket to Cebu, at the ticket office about 30mins drive from the airport. THe place had a strange wild west vibe. Ugly, dirty, empty looking. I was the only female westerner and all the guys were either rough as guts commando looking guys about 6 foot 5, built with skulls dripping blood tatooed on their calves, and yep the tupee wearing dull and bat shit sex tourist type.
Mmmm I thought.
I only got the full story when I went to Malapasca island. There used to be a huge US base there, and all were there for the girls and gambling. Aparently in most hotels you have a maximum of 3 guests.
It is also based in angeles, one of the hubs of sex tourism. I did not know this before I landed so off I trotted to get a ticket to Cebu, at the ticket office about 30mins drive from the airport. THe place had a strange wild west vibe. Ugly, dirty, empty looking. I was the only female westerner and all the guys were either rough as guts commando looking guys about 6 foot 5, built with skulls dripping blood tatooed on their calves, and yep the tupee wearing dull and bat shit sex tourist type.
Mmmm I thought.
I only got the full story when I went to Malapasca island. There used to be a huge US base there, and all were there for the girls and gambling. Aparently in most hotels you have a maximum of 3 guests.
Philippines
I have not felt real true anger for a while, but coming to the Philippines has drawn it out. One aspect in particular - Sex tourists. I really really hate them, as do all the other women I have meet travelling. There are so many single male travellers here, usually 50 - 60 and total ugly losers who are prancing around with these gorgeous 20 ish year old Philippino girls. In my next life I will be a bounty hunter and kill them all!!!!!
Now that I have got that of my chest (I may rant again about it at random) I will talk about the other aspects of the place.
I am going to consider this a criteria for all future travel destinations, except I am going to Thailand next.
It is a hideous element of tourism that you cant escape here.
Did I mention how hideous they are?
Now that I have got that of my chest (I may rant again about it at random) I will talk about the other aspects of the place.
I am going to consider this a criteria for all future travel destinations, except I am going to Thailand next.
It is a hideous element of tourism that you cant escape here.
Did I mention how hideous they are?
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Post I forgot before being deported
Forgot to say that Singapore was great the second time around as well. Stayed in a quirky hostel in china town, and fortuetously ran into an english girl Claire who was also travelling round by herself.
We drank beer, bitched about ramadan, as she had just come out of the jungles of sumatra, and generally bonded over our similar single, travelling, man searching lifestyles. We started off wandering around together the next day, then went seperate ways.
Went to the biannale where I ran into Norbet my art theory lecturer form 1996/7. THere were some great peices but I missed the out door exhibits.
Went To GCA and pressed palms with EA, ubisoft were not there which was a bummer - oh well.
EA have studios in Melb, and Singapore and the rest of the world.
Claire and I hooked up for dinner - me late due to having a crazy time trying to book the bloody train! took ages. After a train ride, and a taxi dash I got the train.............
We drank beer, bitched about ramadan, as she had just come out of the jungles of sumatra, and generally bonded over our similar single, travelling, man searching lifestyles. We started off wandering around together the next day, then went seperate ways.
Went to the biannale where I ran into Norbet my art theory lecturer form 1996/7. THere were some great peices but I missed the out door exhibits.
Went To GCA and pressed palms with EA, ubisoft were not there which was a bummer - oh well.
EA have studios in Melb, and Singapore and the rest of the world.
Claire and I hooked up for dinner - me late due to having a crazy time trying to book the bloody train! took ages. After a train ride, and a taxi dash I got the train.............
Saturday, September 20, 2008
New plan
I am going to the phillipines tomorrow. Flights to Phillipines are cheapest at the moment, cause everwhere else is booked solid due to ramadan.
Read it and weep! Going to Malapascua island, otherwise known as a tropical paradise, and it is manta season.
http://www.malapascua-diving.com/index.html
Read it and weep! Going to Malapascua island, otherwise known as a tropical paradise, and it is manta season.
http://www.malapascua-diving.com/index.html
Detainee
Well now I can add detainee to my life experiences.
Was assured at KL that my indonesia visa was valid, arrived in Banda Aceh and was denied entry. They were going to put me on the next plane back to KL but a bird flew into the engine, so I was stuck!
Lots of people on the plane were from NGO's as I got to know as we milled around the airport for several hours, the detainee and the people who were meant to take the next flight.
So as I could not leave indonesia, Airasia put me up in a great hotel - gracious! - and I got taken out to dinner by a contractor there, a dutch guy called gan, who felt sorry for me as he saw me shed a tear after 24 hours in transit and about 2 hours sleep! Went to a fantastic local sea food place the bribed the cops so there was beer! He had been in Aceh since the tsunami, and had done education sessions for months in the area. He was from a dutch company, and was an environmental officer....still not quite sure what he was doing....
Next day went site seeing, the ships that came inland during the tusnami are now tourist attractions, mostly local tourists I was the only bule. There is a steamer/ cargo ship in the middle of the town and a large fishing boat on top of a house (people still live in the remains of the house). Driving around and learning how much water there was was scary, most of the city was covered in 5 metres of water mixed with, trees, cars etc.
Apparently after the tsunami there were so many ngos large and small at banda aceh that no one knew what others were doing, so there were people doubling up on projects all over the place, and doing things with out any community consolatation. A US funded desalination plant is a swimming pool, as there was no local facility and training to run and maintain it!
The Japanese built a few towers for people to escape to if there is another one. Banda Aceh now has better facilities than most major cities in Indonesia due to all the NGO projects and big budgets.
Meet an english guy Nick who worked for the UNDP (developement program) at the hotel who gave me a lift to the airport in the UN car. We got a taxi into KL together, and he was on his way to a pork restaurant and invited me along. Ended up having a great few hours, mohitjos, petalma reisling, and a pork platter later, oh and another bottle of wine.
He has been living in dalfor in sudan for the last 1.5 years, showed me photos the area and told storys about the region. He was on a 2am flight so went back to the airport, and I started to look for some where to stay at 11pm at night. I was a little tipsy.
As luck would have it the waitress pointed me at a guest house only 50 metres away, so I got a room there. All good.
On the up side, meet more great people and dont have to be around devout muslims and ramadam any more. So I am wearing a summer dress in KL to celebrate.
Was assured at KL that my indonesia visa was valid, arrived in Banda Aceh and was denied entry. They were going to put me on the next plane back to KL but a bird flew into the engine, so I was stuck!
Lots of people on the plane were from NGO's as I got to know as we milled around the airport for several hours, the detainee and the people who were meant to take the next flight.
So as I could not leave indonesia, Airasia put me up in a great hotel - gracious! - and I got taken out to dinner by a contractor there, a dutch guy called gan, who felt sorry for me as he saw me shed a tear after 24 hours in transit and about 2 hours sleep! Went to a fantastic local sea food place the bribed the cops so there was beer! He had been in Aceh since the tsunami, and had done education sessions for months in the area. He was from a dutch company, and was an environmental officer....still not quite sure what he was doing....
Next day went site seeing, the ships that came inland during the tusnami are now tourist attractions, mostly local tourists I was the only bule. There is a steamer/ cargo ship in the middle of the town and a large fishing boat on top of a house (people still live in the remains of the house). Driving around and learning how much water there was was scary, most of the city was covered in 5 metres of water mixed with, trees, cars etc.
Apparently after the tsunami there were so many ngos large and small at banda aceh that no one knew what others were doing, so there were people doubling up on projects all over the place, and doing things with out any community consolatation. A US funded desalination plant is a swimming pool, as there was no local facility and training to run and maintain it!
The Japanese built a few towers for people to escape to if there is another one. Banda Aceh now has better facilities than most major cities in Indonesia due to all the NGO projects and big budgets.
Meet an english guy Nick who worked for the UNDP (developement program) at the hotel who gave me a lift to the airport in the UN car. We got a taxi into KL together, and he was on his way to a pork restaurant and invited me along. Ended up having a great few hours, mohitjos, petalma reisling, and a pork platter later, oh and another bottle of wine.
He has been living in dalfor in sudan for the last 1.5 years, showed me photos the area and told storys about the region. He was on a 2am flight so went back to the airport, and I started to look for some where to stay at 11pm at night. I was a little tipsy.
As luck would have it the waitress pointed me at a guest house only 50 metres away, so I got a room there. All good.
On the up side, meet more great people and dont have to be around devout muslims and ramadam any more. So I am wearing a summer dress in KL to celebrate.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Manado - again
Rocked up to Manado yesterday after an epic 20 + hour trip on ferry and car. Not a great way to spend time.
Stayed at hotel that Michael recommeded, I have a new cockroach rating system. The hotel was reasonable (100, 000 Rp) and I saw only 1 cockroach. But, Diane and I had an altercation with the owner about an ojek fee. We were doing what you dont want to do, get into an "ethics" arguement over less than 10 cents. Anyway, we said the wrong fare to the ojek drivers - a bad bahasa indonesia moment. So, we knew the fare as we had done the drive about 3 times already, we had agreement for 5000, and boss wanted us to pay 7000 to the drivers. We had only asked him for change and he steped in and got difficult. We walked out and got change, paid one driver 6000, and found out he had paid the other 10,000. Diane was brillant and told him we were not paying that, and that we were moving out. After blueing with the owner we left in the am. DOnt know if it was a language issue or not, but he was trying to change prices on us.
So I am in Celebes tonight (190,000) and I have seen about 6 cockroaches and only been there for 30 minutes. I asked them to clear the room of cockroaches, then I moved rooms! So will get another sweep done before I go to sleep.
Diane left for Tomohon, and the guys are uncontactable so I made all my bookings and have now caught up on all bloging.
Love the ojeks - will go back out there and get a ride somewhere, maybe have fish and rice for dinner, again.
Had a avocado juice today, was amazing! It was acocado and chocolate sauce, sounds bad but was amazing.
Stayed at hotel that Michael recommeded, I have a new cockroach rating system. The hotel was reasonable (100, 000 Rp) and I saw only 1 cockroach. But, Diane and I had an altercation with the owner about an ojek fee. We were doing what you dont want to do, get into an "ethics" arguement over less than 10 cents. Anyway, we said the wrong fare to the ojek drivers - a bad bahasa indonesia moment. So, we knew the fare as we had done the drive about 3 times already, we had agreement for 5000, and boss wanted us to pay 7000 to the drivers. We had only asked him for change and he steped in and got difficult. We walked out and got change, paid one driver 6000, and found out he had paid the other 10,000. Diane was brillant and told him we were not paying that, and that we were moving out. After blueing with the owner we left in the am. DOnt know if it was a language issue or not, but he was trying to change prices on us.
So I am in Celebes tonight (190,000) and I have seen about 6 cockroaches and only been there for 30 minutes. I asked them to clear the room of cockroaches, then I moved rooms! So will get another sweep done before I go to sleep.
Diane left for Tomohon, and the guys are uncontactable so I made all my bookings and have now caught up on all bloging.
Love the ojeks - will go back out there and get a ride somewhere, maybe have fish and rice for dinner, again.
Had a avocado juice today, was amazing! It was acocado and chocolate sauce, sounds bad but was amazing.
Change of plans
I am in hunt of better diving, so thanks to airasia.com I am off to Palau Wey, off Banda Aceh.
Back to Singapore tomorrow where I will check out the biennial, then KL to Banda Aceh Friday 19th....back to KL, then Bangkok on 29th to meet Katherine.
I recommend everyone quitting their jobs and travelling :), it is as great as you think it will be!
Back to Singapore tomorrow where I will check out the biennial, then KL to Banda Aceh Friday 19th....back to KL, then Bangkok on 29th to meet Katherine.
I recommend everyone quitting their jobs and travelling :), it is as great as you think it will be!
Togians - above the water
*Discovery has been that you are never to old for the backpacker life! It is great. Meet some many interesting and friendly people at the togians, with ages anywhere from 20 ish to 60 ish.
*The english couple I came over on the ferry with stayed at black marlin, and I stayed at paradise. Turns out the girl is an actress, she played the girl friend of the the blonde slitheran guy Draco in HP4. They were a cool couple.
*At both places you have communal meals 3 times a day, and get to chat with every one there. There were heaps of people from Europe, spain, france, swiss, german, italy etc, and few english, americans and not one australian! Everyone speaks english - feeling very monolingual! Most people are devoted travellers, and many also big divers.
Read so many books!
*Disgrace (and anouther of his books)
*The witch of portobello
*Prey
*For one more day
*Gossip Girl the sequel
And time magazine
*The biggest achievement - I did not get sun burnt badly! Big moment in my life! Such restraint.
*All the local women where a rice flour and water paste to stop them getting dark skin, very white concious.
*Hung out the most with Salim the dive instuctor, Diane a swiss girl, and Micheal a german instructor when he arrived. We traveled to Manado together and diannes phone did not save Salims mobile number - so we could not hook up again. They are great guys, they have worked on bunaken together before.
*People are on a minimum of 5 week trips, many people are traveling for a year. You dont know how jealous I am. Will have to do the next.
*Saw a great doco on Aceh, about the history of the independance movement, heat breaking. It was broadcast by SBS, made by a US journo based in Jakarta.
*In switzerland sunscreen has been advertised recently as "Australian strength".
*All the single men are on the islands in indonesia girls, reakon there is a ratio of 20/1 ish.
*American guys Brian and Robert had traveled together over many years to many places - very inspiring! Brian and I went on a walk to a beach with the black marlin dogs who rescued us from getting really lost - after we had got minorly lost already! Have photos of the dogs :)
*On the last day at paradise has a great night and morning with "everyone" but particulary 4 x american women, two in their 60s, and two in the mid 20's at a guess. Along with diane we talked for hours about the US, Europe and Aust politics, our lives and travel experiences. The older women had great tails of border crossings in the 70's. And the younger girls were on a years travel, just coming down from the phillipines in an epic journey of many days on pelni --- a trip of budget hell but a good story.
*Feel in love with Bom Bom the dog - he was so cool! I have photos of him too!
Will add more when I think of it.
*The english couple I came over on the ferry with stayed at black marlin, and I stayed at paradise. Turns out the girl is an actress, she played the girl friend of the the blonde slitheran guy Draco in HP4. They were a cool couple.
*At both places you have communal meals 3 times a day, and get to chat with every one there. There were heaps of people from Europe, spain, france, swiss, german, italy etc, and few english, americans and not one australian! Everyone speaks english - feeling very monolingual! Most people are devoted travellers, and many also big divers.
Read so many books!
*Disgrace (and anouther of his books)
*The witch of portobello
*Prey
*For one more day
*Gossip Girl the sequel
And time magazine
*The biggest achievement - I did not get sun burnt badly! Big moment in my life! Such restraint.
*All the local women where a rice flour and water paste to stop them getting dark skin, very white concious.
*Hung out the most with Salim the dive instuctor, Diane a swiss girl, and Micheal a german instructor when he arrived. We traveled to Manado together and diannes phone did not save Salims mobile number - so we could not hook up again. They are great guys, they have worked on bunaken together before.
*People are on a minimum of 5 week trips, many people are traveling for a year. You dont know how jealous I am. Will have to do the next.
*Saw a great doco on Aceh, about the history of the independance movement, heat breaking. It was broadcast by SBS, made by a US journo based in Jakarta.
*In switzerland sunscreen has been advertised recently as "Australian strength".
*All the single men are on the islands in indonesia girls, reakon there is a ratio of 20/1 ish.
*American guys Brian and Robert had traveled together over many years to many places - very inspiring! Brian and I went on a walk to a beach with the black marlin dogs who rescued us from getting really lost - after we had got minorly lost already! Have photos of the dogs :)
*On the last day at paradise has a great night and morning with "everyone" but particulary 4 x american women, two in their 60s, and two in the mid 20's at a guess. Along with diane we talked for hours about the US, Europe and Aust politics, our lives and travel experiences. The older women had great tails of border crossings in the 70's. And the younger girls were on a years travel, just coming down from the phillipines in an epic journey of many days on pelni --- a trip of budget hell but a good story.
*Feel in love with Bom Bom the dog - he was so cool! I have photos of him too!
Will add more when I think of it.
Diving locations
Note to self:
More places to go!
Flores (Bajo divers)
Micronesia (Palau, Marshall islands etc)
Palau Deriwan and Sepidan
Palau Wey - going there now :)
Raja Ampat - in a couple of years when not 50 euro a dive.
Bali NE
More places to go!
Flores (Bajo divers)
Micronesia (Palau, Marshall islands etc)
Palau Deriwan and Sepidan
Palau Wey - going there now :)
Raja Ampat - in a couple of years when not 50 euro a dive.
Bali NE
Togians Diving
First dive "Kuta Platau" was unremarkable - as much a refresher as anything else. Went with Black Marlin.
"Taipai Wall" was a good wall dive. There were huge fan corals, and huge soft coral gardens of yellow and soft orange as far as the eye can see. One of the moments was seeing x 2 lion fish (purple and white) against a purple fan coral. Very special! Dived wall with Salim and Robert and Brian, two Americans.
Brian and Robert saw pilot whales in the distance on the morning dive while I was at Kuta Wall.
There are not many sharks in the togians, all fished out.
Stopped at Taipai island on the way back and hung out, water in shallows had to be 32-35 degrees. There was a cat and a kitten on the island, living in an abandoned resort with a bajo fisherman. Dianne's friend saw the kitten get thrown into a tree - and survive - a few days later. Cats are not popular, dogs are the main pets.
"Coral Reef" was a boring dive, nice wall at the start then heaps of nothing. Mask started to fog too. Nearly trod on a blue ray while clearing mask.
Did two dives at una una - previously the main town in the togians until it errupted 4 years ago. First dive was at "the pinnacle", this was a dive worth waiting for. We traveled around a pinnacle! On side went to about 50 metres, and the other the big blue. It was fish soup, loads of schooling fish, and good visibility. Went with Black Marlin, Lani, Wes an american, and a dutch couple from Utrecht where I stayed over 10 years ago.
The second dive was ok - but less of everything - not much to report other than a green turtle and loads of clown fish.
Missed diving the B24 bomber which was a bummer - will have to find wrecks somewhere else.
"Taipai Wall" was a good wall dive. There were huge fan corals, and huge soft coral gardens of yellow and soft orange as far as the eye can see. One of the moments was seeing x 2 lion fish (purple and white) against a purple fan coral. Very special! Dived wall with Salim and Robert and Brian, two Americans.
Brian and Robert saw pilot whales in the distance on the morning dive while I was at Kuta Wall.
There are not many sharks in the togians, all fished out.
Stopped at Taipai island on the way back and hung out, water in shallows had to be 32-35 degrees. There was a cat and a kitten on the island, living in an abandoned resort with a bajo fisherman. Dianne's friend saw the kitten get thrown into a tree - and survive - a few days later. Cats are not popular, dogs are the main pets.
"Coral Reef" was a boring dive, nice wall at the start then heaps of nothing. Mask started to fog too. Nearly trod on a blue ray while clearing mask.
Did two dives at una una - previously the main town in the togians until it errupted 4 years ago. First dive was at "the pinnacle", this was a dive worth waiting for. We traveled around a pinnacle! On side went to about 50 metres, and the other the big blue. It was fish soup, loads of schooling fish, and good visibility. Went with Black Marlin, Lani, Wes an american, and a dutch couple from Utrecht where I stayed over 10 years ago.
The second dive was ok - but less of everything - not much to report other than a green turtle and loads of clown fish.
Missed diving the B24 bomber which was a bummer - will have to find wrecks somewhere else.
Togian Islands - Environmental Issues
The togians are a beautiful part of the world, aqua water, white sandy beaches, jungle. Its easy living for the tourist folk as you wander around in your bathers and sarong, turning up for breakfast at 8, lunch at 12, and dinner at 7. You fill in the day reading, lying on the beach, diving, snorkling, going round islands on boats, all good stuff.
It is also a place that is an environment on the start of demise. You really feel alarmed as you learn about the environmental 'Losses", and see evidence of what we talk about in relation to climate change, and management of resources. The area is severly over fished, dynamite/ electric chargers are used to kill fish in places, Chinese boats coming in traweling the area for fish and crustations eg the coconut crab (endangered), and fishing sustains the local community. All reef sharks have been fished out.
The water is so hot - a constant 31 degrees on the surface, and 28 degree's below (This is not the hotest time of the year) that coral is dead. The coral takes so long to recover, that 5 years regrowth is barely noticable.
Everything is economic to the locals, as many are stuggling to survive and feed familys, and the concept of a non reknewable ocean is not readily acknowledged, or acknowledged at all. All the serious divers only went for a couple of dives before moving on.
Police turn a blind eye to dynamiting - which has a penalty of 6 years in jail. Not sure what the deal is with the Chinese ships, if they procure favors etc.
It does not seem that there is a way to turn the over fishing and fishing practices around. Without other industrys being available, or government supporting people. Indonesia has no minimum wage, workers rights or pension. Locals were working for 20,000 to 50,000 rupiah a day. Most of the business owners were chinese, the traditional inhabitants were not making much of a living.
Indonesia also has rubbish problems. There is no education about how to get rid of plastic, there are no bins, rubbish is thrown off the boat, out of the car window, etc. Our driver from Gorntal to Manado was tossing out plastic bags, bottles etc for all of the 9 hour trip. Consequently it ends up in the sea. In talking with Micheal, a german dive instructor, a certain percentage of sand is now plastic, which the fish eat, and it enters the food chain again. Rubbish washes up on beaches and people will clean the beach by picking up leaves but leave the rubbish. It is a different mentality.
It is also a place that is an environment on the start of demise. You really feel alarmed as you learn about the environmental 'Losses", and see evidence of what we talk about in relation to climate change, and management of resources. The area is severly over fished, dynamite/ electric chargers are used to kill fish in places, Chinese boats coming in traweling the area for fish and crustations eg the coconut crab (endangered), and fishing sustains the local community. All reef sharks have been fished out.
The water is so hot - a constant 31 degrees on the surface, and 28 degree's below (This is not the hotest time of the year) that coral is dead. The coral takes so long to recover, that 5 years regrowth is barely noticable.
Everything is economic to the locals, as many are stuggling to survive and feed familys, and the concept of a non reknewable ocean is not readily acknowledged, or acknowledged at all. All the serious divers only went for a couple of dives before moving on.
Police turn a blind eye to dynamiting - which has a penalty of 6 years in jail. Not sure what the deal is with the Chinese ships, if they procure favors etc.
It does not seem that there is a way to turn the over fishing and fishing practices around. Without other industrys being available, or government supporting people. Indonesia has no minimum wage, workers rights or pension. Locals were working for 20,000 to 50,000 rupiah a day. Most of the business owners were chinese, the traditional inhabitants were not making much of a living.
Indonesia also has rubbish problems. There is no education about how to get rid of plastic, there are no bins, rubbish is thrown off the boat, out of the car window, etc. Our driver from Gorntal to Manado was tossing out plastic bags, bottles etc for all of the 9 hour trip. Consequently it ends up in the sea. In talking with Micheal, a german dive instructor, a certain percentage of sand is now plastic, which the fish eat, and it enters the food chain again. Rubbish washes up on beaches and people will clean the beach by picking up leaves but leave the rubbish. It is a different mentality.
Friday, September 5, 2008
Gorontalo
Woke up with the though of if it was worth going through 3 more days travel to get to togians, and got a coffee to contimplate if it was going to be worth it. Ramadan went out the window with Sunstroke!
Also, every 2 hours 24 hours day the city has a loud broadcast from the mosque that goes for about half an hour - so sleep is fitful. Here the chants are much more utilitarian, and in my coma last night, a bit brusque, unlike the sung chants in singapore.
God I miss the singapore coffee!
Then a miracle! The boat is working tonight - so went to harbour with the bento Driver neutan, and got a cabin after he negotiated with the harbour heavies. Neutan has taken me on a tour of the fort and the flooded city today. We went to the traditional market which was amazing - lots of papya, pineapple, jack fruit, and amazing sambal ingrediants and ramadan sweets - I got some to try.
So on the boat tonight sharing cabin with 2 british kids who look about 12years old - well 18 - who rocked up at the hotel.
Still wiped out from trip yesterday.
Benti: pony drawn carriages everwhere
City flooded
Crazy good local market
Still sun / heat effected - will write post togians....
Also, every 2 hours 24 hours day the city has a loud broadcast from the mosque that goes for about half an hour - so sleep is fitful. Here the chants are much more utilitarian, and in my coma last night, a bit brusque, unlike the sung chants in singapore.
God I miss the singapore coffee!
Then a miracle! The boat is working tonight - so went to harbour with the bento Driver neutan, and got a cabin after he negotiated with the harbour heavies. Neutan has taken me on a tour of the fort and the flooded city today. We went to the traditional market which was amazing - lots of papya, pineapple, jack fruit, and amazing sambal ingrediants and ramadan sweets - I got some to try.
So on the boat tonight sharing cabin with 2 british kids who look about 12years old - well 18 - who rocked up at the hotel.
Still wiped out from trip yesterday.
Benti: pony drawn carriages everwhere
City flooded
Crazy good local market
Still sun / heat effected - will write post togians....
Manado to Gorontalo
Otherwise known as the day from hell.
Got picked up by car at the hotel to go to Gorontalo at 8pm. THere was the driver, 4 adults and 3 children in a 6 passenger seat car. luckly I had window seat. The Family were very friendly, as was the "single" guy who was inviting me to hotel within 1 minute. Yes, all the english he spoke was basic courtship....so 9 hours later, burnt arm and sunstroke later I arrive in gorontalo.
To be told there is no ferry friday, instead I had to take ferry to Pagimana (12 hour) car to Ampana (6 hour), ferry to Wakai 6-8 hour to get to the togians. I stumbled to the supermarket for a bit of bread to take with my maleria tablet and feel into a disbeliving and dejected coma!
Got picked up by car at the hotel to go to Gorontalo at 8pm. THere was the driver, 4 adults and 3 children in a 6 passenger seat car. luckly I had window seat. The Family were very friendly, as was the "single" guy who was inviting me to hotel within 1 minute. Yes, all the english he spoke was basic courtship....so 9 hours later, burnt arm and sunstroke later I arrive in gorontalo.
To be told there is no ferry friday, instead I had to take ferry to Pagimana (12 hour) car to Ampana (6 hour), ferry to Wakai 6-8 hour to get to the togians. I stumbled to the supermarket for a bit of bread to take with my maleria tablet and feel into a disbeliving and dejected coma!
Manado
Met a guy called Bersi at the airport, and was told that there were no cars going to gorontalo after midday, so a wonderful night in Manado was mine. Was not that enthused. Manado I know being a dirty smelly city. Spent the day getting used to everyone saying hello, being called mrs and mr. With white skin you are an instant movie star around here. It is sweet, but sometimes a little tiring.
Meet a chinese indonesian family who adopted me for the day and night, and i am sure are now searching for a Manado husband for me for when I return. Sat with them, a brother and two sisters from 30 - 50 years and meet kids and cousins. The youngest sisters son had been killed by a bombing - there is new on it www.mozila.com and detik.com i will look it up. He was only 19.
The family was Christian, eg no mass and ramadan, so they got their cousin and her boyfriend Jackson to come and take us to dinner in a car. Jackson was a classic, about my age, and totally different opinion of tourists to the older generation. The grandma and others were so Pround of Manado and wanted to show me all the very best of it - all - in one night! jackson was distainful that I did not speak bahasa, and generally of the experience of showing me round. He was a great view into the side you dont see, as people who are not into the tourist are not usually going to spend 6 hours with you.
Jackson drove us to a great ikan warung (fish) about 30mins from manado near the beach. Amazing fresh tuna, sambal and garlic greens! All eatten with the hands. Then we went on a 4 hour plus tour of Manado, a couple of time as we speed up mountian sides with no one around, and went for a walk in the industrial beach area i thought "is this a good idea" but it was all fine. Jackson said as we disappered into the country side to view the christ statue, "are you scared yet andy", arrr quiet sadonic! After the city, beach, christ statue in the mountain, a full tour I was dropped at the hotel at 11pm, amazed and exhausted. My view of manado very changed through their enthusiasum.
Great random travel moment. Thanks to Luan the grandma!
Indonesian life is like stkilda in the summer all year around.
Meet a chinese indonesian family who adopted me for the day and night, and i am sure are now searching for a Manado husband for me for when I return. Sat with them, a brother and two sisters from 30 - 50 years and meet kids and cousins. The youngest sisters son had been killed by a bombing - there is new on it www.mozila.com and detik.com i will look it up. He was only 19.
The family was Christian, eg no mass and ramadan, so they got their cousin and her boyfriend Jackson to come and take us to dinner in a car. Jackson was a classic, about my age, and totally different opinion of tourists to the older generation. The grandma and others were so Pround of Manado and wanted to show me all the very best of it - all - in one night! jackson was distainful that I did not speak bahasa, and generally of the experience of showing me round. He was a great view into the side you dont see, as people who are not into the tourist are not usually going to spend 6 hours with you.
Jackson drove us to a great ikan warung (fish) about 30mins from manado near the beach. Amazing fresh tuna, sambal and garlic greens! All eatten with the hands. Then we went on a 4 hour plus tour of Manado, a couple of time as we speed up mountian sides with no one around, and went for a walk in the industrial beach area i thought "is this a good idea" but it was all fine. Jackson said as we disappered into the country side to view the christ statue, "are you scared yet andy", arrr quiet sadonic! After the city, beach, christ statue in the mountain, a full tour I was dropped at the hotel at 11pm, amazed and exhausted. My view of manado very changed through their enthusiasum.
Great random travel moment. Thanks to Luan the grandma!
Indonesian life is like stkilda in the summer all year around.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Singapore day 2
There is a Malaysian ex stock broker from Taiwan using this internet cafe as his office...he working for a start up and is looking for investors if anyone is interested :). It is a "escope???" related scheme, created in california. This is a project droped by enron apparently (That is a confidence building name to drop into investment conversations) seems that it is earning money from carbon credits. IRR of 20% for 20 years, related to the energy bill of the malaysian government...its a shoe in.
Had a lovely night with Ben and Wenda last night, they took me to Lau sat pi (Guess of the name) A hawkers market in the financial district, in a stunning victorian rotunda. We dined and walked to the river. The Fullerton is a gigantum colonial building, we went inside to use the facilities and it is an amazing building, stunning, huge, lit amazingly, with an open section in the centre, and columns something like 5 metres in diametre around the staircase. Must have been the worlds most impressive post office in its day. I had sore feet and Wenda has sore legs so we called it a night there. Was great to catch up and see Ben in his adopted city.
Well today was pretty quiet, I got errands out of the way before going to Indonesia, and walked a lot less. Feet are sore.
Went up to Arab street which was a brillant spot great architecture, the old shop fronts, and had an amazing meal at warang nasi pariaman, brillant indonesian cuisene. Ramadan has started, so I will be fasting with the locals in Gorontalo! This is the start to the spiritual side to the holiday.
I had a fast breaking meal at Zam Zam of arab street, took a photo of the small meal...The fast breaks on sunset, with a "song" or chant from the local Mosque. With the celebratory lights, light rain and chanting it sure is religion romatisised.
My bank cards are being annoying - I appear to have a different cash limit (ie less) than I do in Austalia - but sorted it out by trial and error. I was told to contact the comm bank....mmmmm...not so easy...but I can live with it as is.
Saw Wall-e as part of feet resting exercise - was ok not raving about it though. Script was shoveling it a bit.
And Tim and Sarah I had a vocal wonder! It was amazing blend of lime, ginger, coriander and mint. Thanks for pointing me in that direction.
Oh and today I was harrassed by multiple men for the first time. I have decided on the once polite, second yell angrily and use word police in sentence. That seems to be an effective technique to scaring of the persistant. Over breakfast a middle age guy tried to quiz me on my life but would only tell me about his job - deflected all other questions. Strange.
Well leaving the malls and diversity of singapore for rural/ coastal indonesia in the am. Will post when I get back.
Foot note: The entreprenuer is also doing a foriegn service exam, he past the written test. And he has been traveling in rural malaysia. I am in a cubical so have not set eyes on ***** Lin yet, but cant wait! Hes a walker and a talker.
Had a lovely night with Ben and Wenda last night, they took me to Lau sat pi (Guess of the name) A hawkers market in the financial district, in a stunning victorian rotunda. We dined and walked to the river. The Fullerton is a gigantum colonial building, we went inside to use the facilities and it is an amazing building, stunning, huge, lit amazingly, with an open section in the centre, and columns something like 5 metres in diametre around the staircase. Must have been the worlds most impressive post office in its day. I had sore feet and Wenda has sore legs so we called it a night there. Was great to catch up and see Ben in his adopted city.
Well today was pretty quiet, I got errands out of the way before going to Indonesia, and walked a lot less. Feet are sore.
Went up to Arab street which was a brillant spot great architecture, the old shop fronts, and had an amazing meal at warang nasi pariaman, brillant indonesian cuisene. Ramadan has started, so I will be fasting with the locals in Gorontalo! This is the start to the spiritual side to the holiday.
I had a fast breaking meal at Zam Zam of arab street, took a photo of the small meal...The fast breaks on sunset, with a "song" or chant from the local Mosque. With the celebratory lights, light rain and chanting it sure is religion romatisised.
My bank cards are being annoying - I appear to have a different cash limit (ie less) than I do in Austalia - but sorted it out by trial and error. I was told to contact the comm bank....mmmmm...not so easy...but I can live with it as is.
Saw Wall-e as part of feet resting exercise - was ok not raving about it though. Script was shoveling it a bit.
And Tim and Sarah I had a vocal wonder! It was amazing blend of lime, ginger, coriander and mint. Thanks for pointing me in that direction.
Oh and today I was harrassed by multiple men for the first time. I have decided on the once polite, second yell angrily and use word police in sentence. That seems to be an effective technique to scaring of the persistant. Over breakfast a middle age guy tried to quiz me on my life but would only tell me about his job - deflected all other questions. Strange.
Well leaving the malls and diversity of singapore for rural/ coastal indonesia in the am. Will post when I get back.
Foot note: The entreprenuer is also doing a foriegn service exam, he past the written test. And he has been traveling in rural malaysia. I am in a cubical so have not set eyes on ***** Lin yet, but cant wait! Hes a walker and a talker.
Monday, September 1, 2008
singapore day 1
It is cruel being in Singapore and not being able to buy clothes! I have been very very strong, on the condition that I will do a trip here another time and arrive with empty suitcases.
Have walked around little india, orchard road, and raffles area today. Find out what it is like over the other side of the river tomorrow. My desk job feet are aching a little, and I have been the classic tourista ~ a little while to go yet until I am travel hardened. The map is being pulled out a lot!
It is great to be hot ~ all though have a dehydration headache (tourista~). I am sitting**** in a wonderfully airconditioned internet cafe, arrhhh! (tourista~)
So, as I cant really talk shopping, lets talk food.
Its great staying in little india. I arrived mid evening and it was heaving with locals, had a great dinner of Paratha and Ibis (spelling) in the local cafes. Everyone is very patient as you point at other peoples dinners to order...(tourista~). I was the only women in the cafes...it felt normal, just like work! Wandered round and absorbed.
Had breakfast of the kaya toast (coconut jam) and coffee, lunch was a meat and rice combo in a food court ~ and tonight I am meeting Ben soon for a tour of little india. And there is great fruit everywhere - but I did not brave the duran everyone was pounding into - try and work up to it tomorrow.
I am keen to try the fish head curry, hainanese chicken, biryani, singapore crab, laksa etc etc .....some of which will have to make an apperance next time I am here, will see what I can find!
Well ok, I did do some shopping, but not clothes. Got the audio recorder and sdhc cards for it and the camera - so I am all geared up for the trip. Lots of pics of beaches and endless horizons coming up.
And I did pick up a bag...it is a practical shoulder bag - which is also cute. My first purchase from top shop.
Have walked around little india, orchard road, and raffles area today. Find out what it is like over the other side of the river tomorrow. My desk job feet are aching a little, and I have been the classic tourista ~ a little while to go yet until I am travel hardened. The map is being pulled out a lot!
It is great to be hot ~ all though have a dehydration headache (tourista~). I am sitting**** in a wonderfully airconditioned internet cafe, arrhhh! (tourista~)
So, as I cant really talk shopping, lets talk food.
Its great staying in little india. I arrived mid evening and it was heaving with locals, had a great dinner of Paratha and Ibis (spelling) in the local cafes. Everyone is very patient as you point at other peoples dinners to order...(tourista~). I was the only women in the cafes...it felt normal, just like work! Wandered round and absorbed.
Had breakfast of the kaya toast (coconut jam) and coffee, lunch was a meat and rice combo in a food court ~ and tonight I am meeting Ben soon for a tour of little india. And there is great fruit everywhere - but I did not brave the duran everyone was pounding into - try and work up to it tomorrow.
I am keen to try the fish head curry, hainanese chicken, biryani, singapore crab, laksa etc etc .....some of which will have to make an apperance next time I am here, will see what I can find!
Well ok, I did do some shopping, but not clothes. Got the audio recorder and sdhc cards for it and the camera - so I am all geared up for the trip. Lots of pics of beaches and endless horizons coming up.
And I did pick up a bag...it is a practical shoulder bag - which is also cute. My first purchase from top shop.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Before I go
So the plan is that I am heading off to South East Asia for several months leaving on August 31st, and returning 16th December:
Here is the travel map:
Here is the travel map:
- Singapore
- Diving in North Sulawesi for a few weeks
- Singapore
- Travel up to Bangkok Via Malaysia
- Meet Katherine in Bangkok
- Go up to North Thailand
- Laos
- Vietnam travelling north to south
- Cambodia
- Beaches of Thailand
- Back to sunny Melbourne
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